Friday, September 4, 2009
This is Point Judith. I was the king of that place, rode it bigger than anyone in 69-70. The wind blew onshore for week, I awoke one morning and I heard birds chirping outside my window, ran to the living room and looked out on Narragansett bay. The ocean looked like it was tipping back and forth on a teeter-totter as the south swells marched by.
I broke out my 7'10"x 17-1/2' with 10" nose rocker Black Beauty gun for the first time - it was like riding snot it was so smooth on those 12-14 foot perfect peaks.